Grocery Shopping With a French Twist

Entering

No matter how much you love patronizing the small shops and fresh fruit/vegetable vendors flanking the sidewalk, you still need to shop at a supermarket. Just don’t go bringing those street purchases in with you!


Our local Carrefour Market has lockers located in the front of the store for just that purpose. Security will often check your backpack and fasten zippers together with plastic ties. They will gladly snip them once you are ready to check out.

Grab a wheeled frame that holds two baskets, a wheeled basket or you can pay to rent a large shopping cart like the ones we use in the US. Perhaps the fee discourages widespread use of the bigger carts, because maneuvering them through some of the narrower aisles is difficult

         

You can also bring, as many Parisians do, a wheeled vinyl or cloth sack with a drawstring and snap at the top to hold your groceries as you shop.

Then after checkout, the sack 

compactly holds your items as
you wheel it home.

  

      

                                     

This cart has stair-climbing wheels. Great for apartments without elevators and managing the stairs of the Metro stations!

Familiar and New Offerings

It’s amazing how pictures, universally shaped containers for certain products, and a rudimentary knowledge of French can aid in grocery shopping! It is fairly easy to recognize or figure out the items you want. All toilet bowl cleaners have angled spouts, and thanks to Tide Pods, I found laundry pods that are similar. I know butter is called beurre, and when I didn’t see ‘sel’ (salt) in the ingredients, I knew the package I was holding was sweet butter. Yaourt brassé à la Grecque with a scene of white-washed buildings in the background speaks for itself. 

But, what is fromage blanc? (translated as white cheese) That one wasn’t so easy. A whole aisle is devoted to its many flavors and consistencies ranging from solid like cream cheese to thick like strained yogurt. Labels proclaim lots of calcium, vitamin D, and protein. I tried Calin made by Yoplait. It is fat free and delicious - very smooth, creamy and a bit tangy like yogurt (though they are made very differently).

Eggs and most milks are sold unrefridgerated (milk is UHT/still pasteurized but has a longer shelf life). The lait (milk) choices can be confusing. In this instance, labels aren't much help in deciphering what is what (all pictures show happy people out in the sunshine or happy cows!). There’s lait écrémé (skim milk), lait demi-écrémé, lait entire (whole milk), bio (organic), reduced lactose, milk from mountain-ranged cows… I took photos and used the translation app to figure out what each was!

Daddy sugar (sucre) is a major

sugar company whose mission is 

to add a little whimsy to French households! 

(The photo doesn't show all the stick figures dancing around on the other side!)

Expensive imports in the US are a bargain here. This large jar of Dijon mustard (over 13 oz.) is only .87 euros!

  

     

Fresh produce is varied and prices are given for kilograms. For loose produce, you are expected to bag and weigh your selections. You simply put your produce on the scale, find its corresponding picture, press it, and out comes a price sticker for the bag. (Knowledge of French not required!) Cashiers do not weigh produce at checkout. 

          

Lettuces are also sold pre-washed in resealable bags. Mâche, known as lamb's lettuce, is a hardy salad green that is quite popular and plentiful. It is mild, crisp, and pairs well with other greens. 

  

Beer, wine and alcohol are sold in the markets. The drinking age is 18 and the French are very strict about not selling it in the stores to those who are underage. Of course, sitting with an adult in a restaurant is a different story.

This market also has a huge assortment of cured salmon – common on almost every restaurant menu – often served as an entrée (appetizer course, main courses are called plat).

Carrefour is the second largest

retailer in the world offering a 

huge selection of private label 

products.

The box contains organic instant oatmeal. (I have yet to find steel cut oats.) The tea is Linden honey.  Very good. The bottle is EVOO.

Below are certified organic symbols used in France.

Pastel colored toilet paper is very popular in Paris. Pink, peach and yellow seem to be favored. Pink is even found in historic buildings and parks! 

Just like any market there are canned goods, health and beauty products, and cleaning supplies. 

They also stock 

other necessities and seasonal items. 

I have not seen coupons being exchanged, (Oops, saw one the other day! But, it appears couponing is not widespread.) Carrefour does have a loyalty program. After spending a certain amount, customers receive a voucher good towards future purchases.

A Change at Checkout

Be prepared for long lines during rush hour (5-8 pm) and be prepared with something to hold your groceries - bags are not offered and are not in full view. Cashiers keep some under the counter... you'll have to ask and pay for them.

   

The most striking difference at checkout is that cashiers sit to scan your items and are often shoulder to shoulder with each other. The scanner is in front of them, perpendicular to the counter. They do not need to stand because you are bagging your own purchases. 

Cashiers’ productivity while sitting vs standing  is explored in a recent study comparing US supercenters to French hypermarkets.* 

The conveyor belt on which to place your groceries is short, causing patrons with many items to pile them. After scanning, the space devoted to bagging is even shorter. Long lines are exacerbated by customers trying to bag items in a very crowded space and pay at the same time.

One more note of caution – bring lots of coins! Cashiers are fine with waiting (and holding up the line) for you to rummage through your purse or pockets for exact payment. They dislike giving back change!

Note - We’ve been to other grocery chains where the cashiers don’t necessarily sit all the time. Some weigh produce at checkout, some have free bags, others charge for bags. All expect you to bag your own, all charge to use the large shopping carts. Carefour does sell large, reusable bags with their logo. I was referring to small plastic bags that most US stores have available for free.

* find cashier study at: http://mitsloan.mit.edu/iwer/pdf/0809-tilly2.pdf

Gratitude

Gratitude

Are you a glass half-full or a glass half-empty type of person?

An exciting part of travel is experiencing different cultures, cuisines, and situations. Though intellectually you know that, do you still have a hard time coping when reality doesn’t meet expectations? Just how far out of your comfort zone can you function and still be just fine or even happy?

We chose Paris, a world class, gorgeous city, not Timbuktu. So what is the issue??

The Apartment

Upon arriving that first afternoon, we met the owners and the rep from the real estate website we used to find and secure the apt. They showed us around (how to use the gas range, regulate the gas water heater, how to bolt/open the door). We also talked about what furnishing were in the unit and which ones were not: 

• vacuum cleaner as advertised - no, but a Swiffer-type broom is in the kitchen
• washer-dryer combo unit - washer works, dryer does not
• clothesline in the bathroom - no, but a laundromat is down the street
• extra linens for bed - yes
• towels - only one bath and one hand; she thought Jim was coming alone. We'll get another set later that day.
• microwave - yes, oven - no, actually the microwave has an infrared element that works with the microwaves to crisp food as it cooks.
• knife for preparing meals - no
• pot and pan for stove top use - yes, but Teflon interiors are completely scratched.

Okay, we will deal with those.

After they left, we went to unpack and then realized…

There was only one overarching issue with the apartment. It was filthy!

Every door frame, wall and door panel, baseboard, window, appliance, bathroom fixture, switch plate, (even those beautiful Parisian crown moldings with half-inch ledges) was covered with dust or was dirty. Shag carpet, no vacuum – enough said. No wonder we were sneezing our heads off! (Why had we not noticed this before? The white shelving unit and glass table where we sat were clean, as was the kitchen counter.)

We emailed the owner of the website, made a quick trip to the nearest market for multi-surface cleaners and paper towels, and changed the sheets. The website owner promised to do everything he could to rectify the situation. 

Within a week and a half, there was a vast improvement! The next day, a man came to clean for a few hours. With just moist towels and a mop, he removed a good portion of the surface dirt. He was stunned at the extent of what was still needed. The owner brought us a new vacuum cleaner to keep. After three full days of cleaning, the apartment was livable! We went to IKEA to buy some necessities including a table and two chairs. We could now breath, cook, and had a place to eat and work.   

Ceiling medallions in the bedroom and living room as well as those beautiful crown moldings 

By now you are noticing that everything in the living room is monochromatic. The apt. was advertised as 'clean.' I think the word clean (as in cleanliness) got lost in translation - it may have been understood to mean clean lines, uncluttered, white! (We chose the white table to fit in with the owner's taste.)

We have adjusted to the quirks that come with an older unit. Overall, I think we are quite fortunate with this apartment. 

I am grateful that:

• The website was legitimate and responded to our concerns. (we used Parisexpats.com; scams galore on craigslist/Paris)
• The apartment owner tried to make amends as well.
• It feels roomier than 441 sq. ft. with a separate bedroom, living room, kitchen & bath.
• Four windows, two with courtyard and two with street exposures provide wonderful cross ventilation.
• The stove has four gas burners; the fridge is apt sized, not tiny.
• There is enough hot water to take a decent length shower; the water can get so hot that dishes dry within a few minutes.
• The clothes washer is reliable; the drying rack we bought is working out.
• The radiators (now clean) also serve as towel warmers and drying racks.
• Internet connection is great (Jim brought our network router from home) and there is a phone to call land lines in the US free of charge.
• The furnishings are mostly from IKEA, so the décor is contemporary and uncluttered.
• The queen bed has storage drawers underneath and the wardrobe is large with several shelves and sliding wire baskets.
• We bought a relatively inexpensive espresso machine, so my in-house barista is back on duty.
• The residents are quiet and the apt. building is well maintained. It is ‘L’ shaped and each side has its own staircase and elevator with only three apartments on each floor.

I thought I would mind having the washing

machine in the kitchen, but it is fine. 

The espresso machine is on the small shelf seen jutting out in the photo.

First 'dinner' before we were able to cook. Really, how terrible is wine, bread, and cheese?!

The Neighborhood

Paris is divided into 20 Arrondissements (districts or boroughs) which spiral out from the center of the city in numerical order. We are at the northeastern edge of the 17th next to the 18th, at Paris’ northern boundary. If you read a tourist guide describing each neighborhood, very little is written about this area of the 17th. It is a residential neighborhood that is very Parisian.  

Our apartment building is at the corner of two main streets, and though traffic noise filters up, it is a glimpse into a very lively, popular, and thriving section of Paris.

I am grateful that:

• The Porte de Saint-Ouen Metro stop is a few steps from our front door. Our ligne (line#13) travels north and south through the center of Paris and through major transfer points. Within 20-30 minutes we can get almost everywhere we want in Paris.
• Our neighborhood is solidly middle class and safe. All day and well into the evening until 10 p.m., people frequent the shops and dine outside.
• There is a mixture of cafés/brassieres, Asian, Greek and traditional French restaurants.
• Almost anything we need is literally down the street. Within five blocks, we have our pick of a half dozen (or more) boulangers/patisseries (bread and pastry shops), butchers, fishmongers, flower shops, fruit and vegetable vendors, cheese vendors, pharmacies, clothing and shoe stores, key shops, hair stylists, laundromats, dry cleaners, a home appliance store (think Sears), a smattering of doctors and dentists, and three large supermarkets.
• With such abundance, we have our favorite Boulanger for croissants in the morning, another for poulet (chicken) sandwiches we often take with us when we travel for the day, and a third where we buy baguettes for dinner on our way home.
• Many of the shopkeepers and restaurant staff speak English and quite a few menus have English descriptions. One Boulanger greets us in English. I think he likes having the chance to speak it and he is very patient with our attempt to reply in French.
• We have a charming neighborhood park where mothers bring their children during the day, people of all ages eat lunch, and whole families gather after work. It spans two blocks with a tree-shaded promenade along one side. With play areas for children on one end and grassy areas on the other, a lot of activity can take place, but you never feel cramped. A covered gazebo is in the middle with benches forming an outer ring. Hour-long concerts are planned throughout the summer. It is kept clean and there is no graffiti anywhere.

Flower bouquet selections change every couple of days. Potted flowers and herbs are now available too.

Lamb, rabbit, pork, sausage, beef (many unfamiliar cuts) and chicken (both whole and quartered) are sold. Every butcher has racks of rotisserie chickens cooking in front of their stores!

Today we ventured further into the 17th, to a twice-yearly outdoor organic market in the Batignolles neighborhood. We found another beautiful park, another lovely area catering more to the local population than to tourists.

Time Out For the Big Picture

One thing we have observed is that there is a politeness and a relaxed attitude towards life by the people we have encountered. They seem to be present, appreciating the moment. We too find ourselves calmer and “appreciating life with all its messy imperfect excellence.” 

I am grateful that Jim and I have each other, for our wonderful family and dear friends, good heath, and that we gave ourselves time to live here. Knowing we can return to a place, or visit others off the beaten path, we are able to slow down and savor what we are experiencing.

Certainly, there are more affluent neighborhoods in Paris and others that are closer to historic buildings and the “must see” sights. We wanted a living arrangement that was typically Parisian. I am grateful that our choice of apartments based on price, appointments and location really turned out to be wonderful. You can call it rationalization, cognitive dissidence, or just gratitude. I feel quite happy with the last one.

What are you grateful for?

Stairs + Urban Hiking

Urban Hiking

A few years back, Jim and I spent several hours in Marseille, Fr. We started down by the Vieux Port (Old Port), a thriving harbor filled with fishing boats (that sell their fresh catch at dockside), pleasure yachts and tourists. He was casting a line from the rocks at the mouth of the port, and I was a few yards away on the seawall enjoying the sunshine. A level above, old mariners were talking and drinking away idle time.

We knew we wanted to see the Basilique Notre Dame de la Garde, situated on Marseille's highest point, La Garde. How exactly to get there? How far away? It didn’t really matter. As urban hikers, we often pick a destination and have a general idea of which streets to take. However, it’s the journey – opportunities for forays into neighborhood nooks and discovery – that is so satisfying.

"Urban hiking isn’t just a walk; like any hike it’s a journey we undertake, a physical and sensory passage we retreat within. We engage with a place by acting within it, moving within it, taking it into our senses and imagination – not as isolated landmarks but as a full and continuous terrain… See where your whim takes you, where the landscape of people and activity and architecture lead you. Absorb the chance for deep, contemplative solitude or relish the opportunities for new acquaintance and conversation.” (from marksdailyapple.com)

With the sight of the basilica high above, and a sign at sea level pointing us to start at a particular street, we set out. The streets are steep and winding. On more than one occasion, we wondered how the elderly navigated them on a daily basis. Shortly after seeing several people carrying baguettes, we found the local boulanger they had come from. Armed with warm, fresh bread, the streets became more amicable. Often, those streets dead-ended at steps that led to another level and another street. Sometimes stairs paralleled the street, making the trek easier.

Stairs!!

We easily found Notre Dame, an opulent, domed 19th century Romano-Byzantine basilica, which many residents see as the guardian, protector of the city. Models of shipwrecked boats, whose crews were saved, hang from the ceiling of the upper church. Inside, the magnificent dome is decorated with gold leaf and vibrant mosaics (an extensive restoration took place between 2001-2008). The church is multi-leveled with wide plazas that provide a 360-degree view of the city. Breathtaking! Upon looking directly down and seeing all the greenery and yet another set of stairs (at a different direction from which we had come), I remarked that we should take those stairs when leaving. That’s when Jim had an epiphany! He finally figured out my love affair with stairs and steps – having grown-up in flat Miami Beach in a one-story ranch home, I was STAIR DEPRIVED!!

Hmmm... he does have a point. I love the physicality of steps. Whether they are shallow and wide or narrow and rather deep, made of stone, wood, or concrete, I appreciate the structural design of this very simple solution of getting from point A to point B. I've sighed more than once over the beauty and elegance of a graceful, curved marble staircase. I also love the physical demands of stairs. The effort it takes to propel yourself up and the fun, quick, almost skipping movements you can make while descending. 


 View of Notre Dame's entrance and bell tower.

View of the Old Port from one of Notre Dame's upper levels

But, I have to admit, it is steps and full flights of stairs in a city environment that particularly beckon me - those that urban planners, civil engineers and garden/landscape designers have placed for either sheer convenience, or to enhance the beauty and experience of a site. It’s the promise of discovery with each landing: different vantage points, the revelation of architectural gems or natural havens that entice me like a siren’s song.

In Alicante, Spain, we shunned the vertical elevator (and hour wait time) to get to the summit of Benacantil Mountain and the famous Castillo de Santa Bárbara. We chose to find another way up and followed a street sign that pointed us in the right direction. Were we ever rewarded! We found the most amazing and thoughtfully planned pedestrian walkway around the mountain. At many sections, the walkway had a 20% grade (signs pointed this out), that was often mitigated with wide, shallow steps.

Other sections had areas designed for rest and sunbathing – all facing the beautiful Mediterranean. Those urban planners understand how people interact with their environment and how necessary it is to have places of quiet beauty for contemplation.

Close to the top, but now at the back of the mountain, we walked through an area of brush and scrub that faced the interior of the city and the land beyond. We reached the entrance to the castle where the tour buses drop off their passengers. We understand the need for tour buses, but just like in Marseille, they missed the pleasures of what a journey on foot affords.

Need I tell you that within the castle walls, the views were spectacular! The castle itself is a marvel - well preserved, many levels, lots of stairs... my heart sang! If you want a resort city on the Med, check out Alicante.

When it was time to head down towards the port, we chose to take yet another path and another series of steps. Along this route, the stairs wound between backyards and at times were so intimate, we felt like we were trespassing. Do you know the Robert Frost poem, “Mending Wall” with the line 'good fences make good neighbors'? That came to mind. The space for the stairs offered enough separation for each homeowner to have their own domain, yet close enough to be friendly. As we made our way down, we came to a landing just big enough for a few stores and a restaurant with outdoor seating. We could envision a half dozen neighborhood families gathering there in the evening to visit and relax. More stairs connected that area with the larger plazas and downtown streets lined with more shops and outdoor dining venues. We got a good feel for how the residents live in and traverse their town. 

It should come as no surprise that when we arrived in Lisbon on our latest cruise, we chose to walk this “city of 7 hills” lined with steep, narrow streets (some too steep for autos). Their funicular system helps connect various levels of the city with one another. The most elaborate is the Santa Justa Elevator that rises 45 meters. It's designer found inspiration in the Eiffel style of architecture.

Our exploration led us to the Praca Alegria View Point. One of many panoramic view points, Praca Alegria is a split-level plaza, west of the historic center, with views of the Baixa (downtown) across to the Castelo de Sao Jorge and its battlements.

 lower level of the Praca Alegria in foreground, Castelo de Sao Jorge in   background (highest point)

 As we trekked, a few sights that caught my eye...

Outdoor cafe on a landing before another set of stairs leads you a level lower

Painted tile scenes and elaborate ironwork over doorways

Interesting architectural details on the facade of the International Hotel

Paris, perfect for urban hiking

Now that we're here in Paris, we may take the Metro to a certain area, but once there, we give ourselves time to meander, to soak in details of time and place. This city was made for walking with ample chance for discovery literally down every street... and it is full of stairs!! (I'll show and tell more in future posts.)

                       See what I mean!! Glorious, don't you think?

Truth be told, that after a full day hiking around the city, those last three flights of polished wood, each step dipping slightly at the edge, often push the limits of my love. :-)

The Allure of Cruising

We made it on board! The intense packing, moving, and driving nearly 1100 miles was behind us. With Crown Princess ID cards issued, bags delivered to our stateroom, and introductions to our room steward completed, we finally felt able to relax.

The cruise ships make a big deal about leaving port. They throw a 'Sail Away' party on the upper decks - live music plays, the wait staff take drink orders, and shipboard prizes are randomly awarded. Passengers gather along the railings to wave good-bye to those on land and to take photos as the bridge maneuvers the ship away from the docks. All this is designed so that your cares slip away as land slowly slips out of view and the ship heads towards open sea.

On board, the only thing you need to carry with you is your cruise ID card. All info is stored on the card and it's your stateroom key. Extra expenditures (alcohol, store purchases, spa services, gambling) are charged to your account via your ID card. Princess gives you a blue bag too, so hundreds of people are walking around with ID cards dangling from their necks carrying identical totes!

We were delighted with our stateroom choice. Baha deck is centrally located between the upper pool/buffet/spa decks and the lower heart of the ship - the Piazza, dining rooms, shops, theater and entertainment venues. Our stateroom, at the end of a hallway, had traffic from only a limited number of cruise staff entering/exiting from a nondescript door.




In addition, the balcony was very private! All the balconies on our deck have an overhang that prevents  people on the upper balconies from seeing into ours. We, on the other hand, had a clear view into the balconies of the lower decks which were open on top. All have solid sides for privacy from those next door.





 
Our room steward, John, was wonderful - always with a cheerful 'hello'. He made sure we didn't want for a thing. Our room was cleaned twice a day with fresh towels each time (despite our sporadic schedule). Turn-down service while we were at dinner, resulted in chocolates by our pillows. A very special touch came on April 20th. We woke to a Happy Anniversary banner on our door and balloons taped to the wall next to it. 

It made us smile each time we entered our room for the remainder of the cruise.

These transatlantic cruises allow the cruise lines to reposition some of their fleet during late Spring for European destinations. They reverse the crossing in late Fall, so those ships can then sail to the Caribbean, Mexico and beyond. For passengers, it's an opportunity to be on a floating sanctuary - to be catered to and pampered for 6-8 uninterrupted days at sea. You can choose to fill your days with activities or spend your time in little oases of solitude all around the ship. On most days, Jim and I ate breakfast together, got in a 3-5 mile walk outside around the Promenade deck, and then went our separate ways for the afternoon. We dressed for dinner each night and had no problem getting a table for two at 8 pm.

I was able to enjoy a manicure and a hot-stone massage at the Lotus Spa. My 90-minute massage (75 min of hands-on time) had only 60 min. of actual massage. To compensate, the spa offered me my choice of another 25 min. treatment. I scheduled a leg and foot massage for the early evening when we returned from our day in Brugges, Belgium. It was perfect after a full day of walking. I also chose the same therapist. Not only did she extend the session to 40 minutes, she again used hot stones! I totally appreciated it. She was a sweetheart as well as being extremely competent.

For me, one of the most appealing aspects of cruising is being on the water. I love the breezes, watching the moving clouds, and seeing the different and nuanced colors of the sea as its depth changes. I like how the ship churns the water as it makes its way through. This churning creates white, lacy foam undulating over aquamarine on top of deep navy or royal blue. Mesmerizing! We never missed an opportunity to sit by the window and look out. Whether it was during long, lazy breakfasts, while reading and writing in a quiet spot, or playing Scrabble with a new-found friend. I asked the manicurist, whose station was by the window, if she ever grew tired of the view. She said no, she liked looking out over the water, getting lost in it, and thinking. In essence, that's it. Watching the movement, the patterns - restful, peaceful and rejuvenating. Water... a source for meditation.