Stairs + Urban Hiking

Urban Hiking

A few years back, Jim and I spent several hours in Marseille, Fr. We started down by the Vieux Port (Old Port), a thriving harbor filled with fishing boats (that sell their fresh catch at dockside), pleasure yachts and tourists. He was casting a line from the rocks at the mouth of the port, and I was a few yards away on the seawall enjoying the sunshine. A level above, old mariners were talking and drinking away idle time.

We knew we wanted to see the Basilique Notre Dame de la Garde, situated on Marseille's highest point, La Garde. How exactly to get there? How far away? It didn’t really matter. As urban hikers, we often pick a destination and have a general idea of which streets to take. However, it’s the journey – opportunities for forays into neighborhood nooks and discovery – that is so satisfying.

"Urban hiking isn’t just a walk; like any hike it’s a journey we undertake, a physical and sensory passage we retreat within. We engage with a place by acting within it, moving within it, taking it into our senses and imagination – not as isolated landmarks but as a full and continuous terrain… See where your whim takes you, where the landscape of people and activity and architecture lead you. Absorb the chance for deep, contemplative solitude or relish the opportunities for new acquaintance and conversation.” (from marksdailyapple.com)

With the sight of the basilica high above, and a sign at sea level pointing us to start at a particular street, we set out. The streets are steep and winding. On more than one occasion, we wondered how the elderly navigated them on a daily basis. Shortly after seeing several people carrying baguettes, we found the local boulanger they had come from. Armed with warm, fresh bread, the streets became more amicable. Often, those streets dead-ended at steps that led to another level and another street. Sometimes stairs paralleled the street, making the trek easier.

Stairs!!

We easily found Notre Dame, an opulent, domed 19th century Romano-Byzantine basilica, which many residents see as the guardian, protector of the city. Models of shipwrecked boats, whose crews were saved, hang from the ceiling of the upper church. Inside, the magnificent dome is decorated with gold leaf and vibrant mosaics (an extensive restoration took place between 2001-2008). The church is multi-leveled with wide plazas that provide a 360-degree view of the city. Breathtaking! Upon looking directly down and seeing all the greenery and yet another set of stairs (at a different direction from which we had come), I remarked that we should take those stairs when leaving. That’s when Jim had an epiphany! He finally figured out my love affair with stairs and steps – having grown-up in flat Miami Beach in a one-story ranch home, I was STAIR DEPRIVED!!

Hmmm... he does have a point. I love the physicality of steps. Whether they are shallow and wide or narrow and rather deep, made of stone, wood, or concrete, I appreciate the structural design of this very simple solution of getting from point A to point B. I've sighed more than once over the beauty and elegance of a graceful, curved marble staircase. I also love the physical demands of stairs. The effort it takes to propel yourself up and the fun, quick, almost skipping movements you can make while descending. 


 View of Notre Dame's entrance and bell tower.

View of the Old Port from one of Notre Dame's upper levels

But, I have to admit, it is steps and full flights of stairs in a city environment that particularly beckon me - those that urban planners, civil engineers and garden/landscape designers have placed for either sheer convenience, or to enhance the beauty and experience of a site. It’s the promise of discovery with each landing: different vantage points, the revelation of architectural gems or natural havens that entice me like a siren’s song.

In Alicante, Spain, we shunned the vertical elevator (and hour wait time) to get to the summit of Benacantil Mountain and the famous Castillo de Santa Bárbara. We chose to find another way up and followed a street sign that pointed us in the right direction. Were we ever rewarded! We found the most amazing and thoughtfully planned pedestrian walkway around the mountain. At many sections, the walkway had a 20% grade (signs pointed this out), that was often mitigated with wide, shallow steps.

Other sections had areas designed for rest and sunbathing – all facing the beautiful Mediterranean. Those urban planners understand how people interact with their environment and how necessary it is to have places of quiet beauty for contemplation.

Close to the top, but now at the back of the mountain, we walked through an area of brush and scrub that faced the interior of the city and the land beyond. We reached the entrance to the castle where the tour buses drop off their passengers. We understand the need for tour buses, but just like in Marseille, they missed the pleasures of what a journey on foot affords.

Need I tell you that within the castle walls, the views were spectacular! The castle itself is a marvel - well preserved, many levels, lots of stairs... my heart sang! If you want a resort city on the Med, check out Alicante.

When it was time to head down towards the port, we chose to take yet another path and another series of steps. Along this route, the stairs wound between backyards and at times were so intimate, we felt like we were trespassing. Do you know the Robert Frost poem, “Mending Wall” with the line 'good fences make good neighbors'? That came to mind. The space for the stairs offered enough separation for each homeowner to have their own domain, yet close enough to be friendly. As we made our way down, we came to a landing just big enough for a few stores and a restaurant with outdoor seating. We could envision a half dozen neighborhood families gathering there in the evening to visit and relax. More stairs connected that area with the larger plazas and downtown streets lined with more shops and outdoor dining venues. We got a good feel for how the residents live in and traverse their town. 

It should come as no surprise that when we arrived in Lisbon on our latest cruise, we chose to walk this “city of 7 hills” lined with steep, narrow streets (some too steep for autos). Their funicular system helps connect various levels of the city with one another. The most elaborate is the Santa Justa Elevator that rises 45 meters. It's designer found inspiration in the Eiffel style of architecture.

Our exploration led us to the Praca Alegria View Point. One of many panoramic view points, Praca Alegria is a split-level plaza, west of the historic center, with views of the Baixa (downtown) across to the Castelo de Sao Jorge and its battlements.

 lower level of the Praca Alegria in foreground, Castelo de Sao Jorge in   background (highest point)

 As we trekked, a few sights that caught my eye...

Outdoor cafe on a landing before another set of stairs leads you a level lower

Painted tile scenes and elaborate ironwork over doorways

Interesting architectural details on the facade of the International Hotel

Paris, perfect for urban hiking

Now that we're here in Paris, we may take the Metro to a certain area, but once there, we give ourselves time to meander, to soak in details of time and place. This city was made for walking with ample chance for discovery literally down every street... and it is full of stairs!! (I'll show and tell more in future posts.)

                       See what I mean!! Glorious, don't you think?

Truth be told, that after a full day hiking around the city, those last three flights of polished wood, each step dipping slightly at the edge, often push the limits of my love. :-)

The Allure of Cruising

We made it on board! The intense packing, moving, and driving nearly 1100 miles was behind us. With Crown Princess ID cards issued, bags delivered to our stateroom, and introductions to our room steward completed, we finally felt able to relax.

The cruise ships make a big deal about leaving port. They throw a 'Sail Away' party on the upper decks - live music plays, the wait staff take drink orders, and shipboard prizes are randomly awarded. Passengers gather along the railings to wave good-bye to those on land and to take photos as the bridge maneuvers the ship away from the docks. All this is designed so that your cares slip away as land slowly slips out of view and the ship heads towards open sea.

On board, the only thing you need to carry with you is your cruise ID card. All info is stored on the card and it's your stateroom key. Extra expenditures (alcohol, store purchases, spa services, gambling) are charged to your account via your ID card. Princess gives you a blue bag too, so hundreds of people are walking around with ID cards dangling from their necks carrying identical totes!

We were delighted with our stateroom choice. Baha deck is centrally located between the upper pool/buffet/spa decks and the lower heart of the ship - the Piazza, dining rooms, shops, theater and entertainment venues. Our stateroom, at the end of a hallway, had traffic from only a limited number of cruise staff entering/exiting from a nondescript door.




In addition, the balcony was very private! All the balconies on our deck have an overhang that prevents  people on the upper balconies from seeing into ours. We, on the other hand, had a clear view into the balconies of the lower decks which were open on top. All have solid sides for privacy from those next door.





 
Our room steward, John, was wonderful - always with a cheerful 'hello'. He made sure we didn't want for a thing. Our room was cleaned twice a day with fresh towels each time (despite our sporadic schedule). Turn-down service while we were at dinner, resulted in chocolates by our pillows. A very special touch came on April 20th. We woke to a Happy Anniversary banner on our door and balloons taped to the wall next to it. 

It made us smile each time we entered our room for the remainder of the cruise.

These transatlantic cruises allow the cruise lines to reposition some of their fleet during late Spring for European destinations. They reverse the crossing in late Fall, so those ships can then sail to the Caribbean, Mexico and beyond. For passengers, it's an opportunity to be on a floating sanctuary - to be catered to and pampered for 6-8 uninterrupted days at sea. You can choose to fill your days with activities or spend your time in little oases of solitude all around the ship. On most days, Jim and I ate breakfast together, got in a 3-5 mile walk outside around the Promenade deck, and then went our separate ways for the afternoon. We dressed for dinner each night and had no problem getting a table for two at 8 pm.

I was able to enjoy a manicure and a hot-stone massage at the Lotus Spa. My 90-minute massage (75 min of hands-on time) had only 60 min. of actual massage. To compensate, the spa offered me my choice of another 25 min. treatment. I scheduled a leg and foot massage for the early evening when we returned from our day in Brugges, Belgium. It was perfect after a full day of walking. I also chose the same therapist. Not only did she extend the session to 40 minutes, she again used hot stones! I totally appreciated it. She was a sweetheart as well as being extremely competent.

For me, one of the most appealing aspects of cruising is being on the water. I love the breezes, watching the moving clouds, and seeing the different and nuanced colors of the sea as its depth changes. I like how the ship churns the water as it makes its way through. This churning creates white, lacy foam undulating over aquamarine on top of deep navy or royal blue. Mesmerizing! We never missed an opportunity to sit by the window and look out. Whether it was during long, lazy breakfasts, while reading and writing in a quiet spot, or playing Scrabble with a new-found friend. I asked the manicurist, whose station was by the window, if she ever grew tired of the view. She said no, she liked looking out over the water, getting lost in it, and thinking. In essence, that's it. Watching the movement, the patterns - restful, peaceful and rejuvenating. Water... a source for meditation.

Saying Au Revoir

So, you all know by now that I think being with Jim is one continuous adventure. Albeit, one I eagerly and lovingly chose many years ago. I can still happily say I wouldn't want it any other way!

With our lease in Annapolis over, most of our possessions in storage and our bags packed, we drove from Maryland to Ft. Lauderdale to embark on a transatlantic cruise and a three month stay in Paris. The night before, we spent time with Margaux at her home in VA and left Jim's Corvette there for Pat to enjoy. Once we made it to the Treasure Coast, we stopped in Pt. Saint Lucie to stay the night and catch up with Bob and Suzanne Poller. They graciously open their home to us whenever we're in town. They are avid travelers who pepper their tales with insightful tips and sage advice.




The next morning we picked up Lauren at her home in Jupiter. She made a concerted effort to be in FL just to be able to see us off. Her work has her temporarily residing in NJ with excursions home to Jon and puppy every couple of weeks. Her next temporary assignment takes her to DC. 





On to Duffy's near Port Everglades to lunch with family. It was a mini reunion of sorts with brothers, sister, brother-in-law, and sisters-in-law all chatting and laughing. Most with smartphones in hand showing off children and grandchildren. It was heartwarming and gratifying to see us all together... it had been way too long since our last gathering. And, it just wouldn't be family without Mimi and Harris Levine to share it all.

   standing l to r: Harris, Stuart, David, Ed
   seated l to r: Mimi, Lauren, Randee, Ellen, Eileen, Carol

Take a good look at the guy top row, left. You may not see much of him in subsequent posts. We had to cajole Jim into posing with the rest of us. He's much more comfortable behind the camera. 

After reluctant good-byes and many extended hugs, we were off to start the next phase of our adventure. Lauren dropped us off at Port Everglades in front of the Crown Princess - our new home for 2 weeks!