Gratitude

Gratitude

Are you a glass half-full or a glass half-empty type of person?

An exciting part of travel is experiencing different cultures, cuisines, and situations. Though intellectually you know that, do you still have a hard time coping when reality doesn’t meet expectations? Just how far out of your comfort zone can you function and still be just fine or even happy?

We chose Paris, a world class, gorgeous city, not Timbuktu. So what is the issue??

The Apartment

Upon arriving that first afternoon, we met the owners and the rep from the real estate website we used to find and secure the apt. They showed us around (how to use the gas range, regulate the gas water heater, how to bolt/open the door). We also talked about what furnishing were in the unit and which ones were not: 

• vacuum cleaner as advertised - no, but a Swiffer-type broom is in the kitchen
• washer-dryer combo unit - washer works, dryer does not
• clothesline in the bathroom - no, but a laundromat is down the street
• extra linens for bed - yes
• towels - only one bath and one hand; she thought Jim was coming alone. We'll get another set later that day.
• microwave - yes, oven - no, actually the microwave has an infrared element that works with the microwaves to crisp food as it cooks.
• knife for preparing meals - no
• pot and pan for stove top use - yes, but Teflon interiors are completely scratched.

Okay, we will deal with those.

After they left, we went to unpack and then realized…

There was only one overarching issue with the apartment. It was filthy!

Every door frame, wall and door panel, baseboard, window, appliance, bathroom fixture, switch plate, (even those beautiful Parisian crown moldings with half-inch ledges) was covered with dust or was dirty. Shag carpet, no vacuum – enough said. No wonder we were sneezing our heads off! (Why had we not noticed this before? The white shelving unit and glass table where we sat were clean, as was the kitchen counter.)

We emailed the owner of the website, made a quick trip to the nearest market for multi-surface cleaners and paper towels, and changed the sheets. The website owner promised to do everything he could to rectify the situation. 

Within a week and a half, there was a vast improvement! The next day, a man came to clean for a few hours. With just moist towels and a mop, he removed a good portion of the surface dirt. He was stunned at the extent of what was still needed. The owner brought us a new vacuum cleaner to keep. After three full days of cleaning, the apartment was livable! We went to IKEA to buy some necessities including a table and two chairs. We could now breath, cook, and had a place to eat and work.   

Ceiling medallions in the bedroom and living room as well as those beautiful crown moldings 

By now you are noticing that everything in the living room is monochromatic. The apt. was advertised as 'clean.' I think the word clean (as in cleanliness) got lost in translation - it may have been understood to mean clean lines, uncluttered, white! (We chose the white table to fit in with the owner's taste.)

We have adjusted to the quirks that come with an older unit. Overall, I think we are quite fortunate with this apartment. 

I am grateful that:

• The website was legitimate and responded to our concerns. (we used Parisexpats.com; scams galore on craigslist/Paris)
• The apartment owner tried to make amends as well.
• It feels roomier than 441 sq. ft. with a separate bedroom, living room, kitchen & bath.
• Four windows, two with courtyard and two with street exposures provide wonderful cross ventilation.
• The stove has four gas burners; the fridge is apt sized, not tiny.
• There is enough hot water to take a decent length shower; the water can get so hot that dishes dry within a few minutes.
• The clothes washer is reliable; the drying rack we bought is working out.
• The radiators (now clean) also serve as towel warmers and drying racks.
• Internet connection is great (Jim brought our network router from home) and there is a phone to call land lines in the US free of charge.
• The furnishings are mostly from IKEA, so the décor is contemporary and uncluttered.
• The queen bed has storage drawers underneath and the wardrobe is large with several shelves and sliding wire baskets.
• We bought a relatively inexpensive espresso machine, so my in-house barista is back on duty.
• The residents are quiet and the apt. building is well maintained. It is ‘L’ shaped and each side has its own staircase and elevator with only three apartments on each floor.

I thought I would mind having the washing

machine in the kitchen, but it is fine. 

The espresso machine is on the small shelf seen jutting out in the photo.

First 'dinner' before we were able to cook. Really, how terrible is wine, bread, and cheese?!

The Neighborhood

Paris is divided into 20 Arrondissements (districts or boroughs) which spiral out from the center of the city in numerical order. We are at the northeastern edge of the 17th next to the 18th, at Paris’ northern boundary. If you read a tourist guide describing each neighborhood, very little is written about this area of the 17th. It is a residential neighborhood that is very Parisian.  

Our apartment building is at the corner of two main streets, and though traffic noise filters up, it is a glimpse into a very lively, popular, and thriving section of Paris.

I am grateful that:

• The Porte de Saint-Ouen Metro stop is a few steps from our front door. Our ligne (line#13) travels north and south through the center of Paris and through major transfer points. Within 20-30 minutes we can get almost everywhere we want in Paris.
• Our neighborhood is solidly middle class and safe. All day and well into the evening until 10 p.m., people frequent the shops and dine outside.
• There is a mixture of cafés/brassieres, Asian, Greek and traditional French restaurants.
• Almost anything we need is literally down the street. Within five blocks, we have our pick of a half dozen (or more) boulangers/patisseries (bread and pastry shops), butchers, fishmongers, flower shops, fruit and vegetable vendors, cheese vendors, pharmacies, clothing and shoe stores, key shops, hair stylists, laundromats, dry cleaners, a home appliance store (think Sears), a smattering of doctors and dentists, and three large supermarkets.
• With such abundance, we have our favorite Boulanger for croissants in the morning, another for poulet (chicken) sandwiches we often take with us when we travel for the day, and a third where we buy baguettes for dinner on our way home.
• Many of the shopkeepers and restaurant staff speak English and quite a few menus have English descriptions. One Boulanger greets us in English. I think he likes having the chance to speak it and he is very patient with our attempt to reply in French.
• We have a charming neighborhood park where mothers bring their children during the day, people of all ages eat lunch, and whole families gather after work. It spans two blocks with a tree-shaded promenade along one side. With play areas for children on one end and grassy areas on the other, a lot of activity can take place, but you never feel cramped. A covered gazebo is in the middle with benches forming an outer ring. Hour-long concerts are planned throughout the summer. It is kept clean and there is no graffiti anywhere.

Flower bouquet selections change every couple of days. Potted flowers and herbs are now available too.

Lamb, rabbit, pork, sausage, beef (many unfamiliar cuts) and chicken (both whole and quartered) are sold. Every butcher has racks of rotisserie chickens cooking in front of their stores!

Today we ventured further into the 17th, to a twice-yearly outdoor organic market in the Batignolles neighborhood. We found another beautiful park, another lovely area catering more to the local population than to tourists.

Time Out For the Big Picture

One thing we have observed is that there is a politeness and a relaxed attitude towards life by the people we have encountered. They seem to be present, appreciating the moment. We too find ourselves calmer and “appreciating life with all its messy imperfect excellence.” 

I am grateful that Jim and I have each other, for our wonderful family and dear friends, good heath, and that we gave ourselves time to live here. Knowing we can return to a place, or visit others off the beaten path, we are able to slow down and savor what we are experiencing.

Certainly, there are more affluent neighborhoods in Paris and others that are closer to historic buildings and the “must see” sights. We wanted a living arrangement that was typically Parisian. I am grateful that our choice of apartments based on price, appointments and location really turned out to be wonderful. You can call it rationalization, cognitive dissidence, or just gratitude. I feel quite happy with the last one.

What are you grateful for?